Words: Kit Heathcock | Images: Supplied
Arriving at the Queen Victoria Hotel for dinner at Dash Restaurant and Bar is like entering another world. A hidden enclave of boutique hotels, including the historic stone buildings of the Dock House Boutique Hotel and Spa, is raised above the bustle of the V&A Waterfront. There’s no passing foot traffic, just parking reserved for guests and a uniformed doorman to welcome you.
Inside the hotel, Dash is a surprisingly intimate space with sophisticated decor: black marble, original art on the walls, plush furnishings and live piano music. Tall windows give glimpses of Table Mountain, with The Silo Hotel reflecting the setting sun. It’s a soothing and polished background, not somewhere for a casual dinner, more a place for when you’re dressed to impress and want a quiet date night away from the city bustle.
Chef Albert Bronkhorst took over the kitchens at Dash at the beginning of the season and has created a lively summer menu, introducing a twist of Asian elements to a classical French approach. For elegance that lives up to the surroundings, ask for the chef’s tasting menu: his pick of the menu with wine pairings from Creation Wines. Visiting mid-week, we went for the simpler option, eating from the à la carte menu with complimentary amuse bouche and palate cleanser.
The mushroom port soup came highly recommended – a clear mushroom broth poured at the table over several elements, from pickled mushrooms to a deep mushroom purée. The spiced tuna loin was exactly that: thick sesame-crusted tuna slices with a heatwave of wasabi concealed in the avo purée and some fresh raspberries, cucumber and soy-lime dressing to cool it down.
A pleasing palate cleanser of cucumber and ginger was the perfect interlude before our mains arrived – generous platefuls, so there was no fear of going away hungry! A wedge of seared salmon came on a mound of saffron mash, with roasted fennel and mussels topped with tomato. The chermoula lamb Wellington was beautifully pink in its casing of pastry lined with mushroom duxelle, rich braised red cabbage, crunchy asparagus spears and bearnaise sauce to complete the dish.
Chocoholics should save room for the decadent chocolate mousse, beautifully dark and rich, with a fresh berry sorbet. Ask for two spoons as there’s more than enough to share.
Dash Restaurant and Bar
021 418 1466
newmarkhotels.com/dining/dash-restaurant-bar