Words: Kit Heathcock | Images: Supplied
Neethlingshof wines, especially their Short Story Collection, have been gaining recognition in recent years, but their restaurant has remained something of a best-kept secret. Driving up the long pine avenue to the historic manor house outside Stellenbosch, it was one we were delighted to discover.
The beautifully preserved Cape Dutch homestead with three small dining rooms off a wide hall leads you to expect something equally traditional in the way of food, but the reality is a breath of fresh air. Chef Brendan Stein took over the kitchen last November and has revitalised the menu.
It’s contemporary upmarket bistro fare, unfussy but perfectly presented with the flair and skill he acquired working at some of our finest restaurants, including La Colombe and most recently Indochine.
“There are techniques I take from fine dining, but I make it more accessible here,” he says. “The key for me is balance.”
The Asian influence of Indochine is clearly close to his heart, interpreted in a gentle fusion style. We were immediately wowed by the intense cauliflower soup, fragrant with turmeric, a touch of lemon and crispy pancetta. And the miso aubergine with pickled shimeji mushrooms was a revelation: rich, warm, roasted flavours contrasted by a lime emulsion and spring onions, perfectly balanced and intensely satisfying. Our Thai green chicken curry was piled high around a bowl of creamy green curry sauce with just the right amount of heat, the chicken, broccoli, crunchy water chestnuts and rich shitake mushrooms intriguingly balanced by the sweetness of caramelised aubergine cubes.
It’s not all Asian aromatics though: a lentil bobotie is part of the food heritage of Neethlingshof, classic beef fillet and springbok shank feature on the mains, and we tasted a beautiful baby beetroot salad with chèvre, sesame crumble and balsamic jellies, which recently won Best Dish award at Restaurant Week. Bright splashes of colour set off a gorgeous chermoula-marinated ostrich fillet, bridging the seasons with the warmth of sweet potato crisps and puree and a cool beetroot relish. Each dish has a recommended pairing from Neethlingshof’s cellar and their Owl Post Pinotage was like deep velvet with the ostrich.
A beautifully plated dark chocolate tart, with sweet hazelnut dacquoise and tart Cape gooseberries, was a rousing finale to a sparkling lunch.
The Restaurant at Neethlingshof
021 883 8966
neethlingshof.co.za/about-the-estate/restaurant