Words: Kit Heathcock Images: Supplied

Since Pepenero closed last year, Mouille Point locals have been waiting to see what Kove Collection would bring next to their prime space with its wide frontage overlooking the sea front. Opened in December as Bobo’s Brasserie, it’s been transformed into a cheerful and sophisticated blend of riotous florals, rich colour and silk-smooth wooden tables and leather upholstered chairs.

Bobo’s aims for a contemporary French feel that’s still comfortable for all the family, serving lunches and dinners throughout the week. Plenty of sheltered outdoor seating set back from the road is ideal for summer sundowners and there’s a lovely bar and lounge area at the back, shelves of books giving it a homely appeal.

The menu has plenty of allusions to the French theme, without being intimidating. Yes, there are snails in garlic butter to be mopped up with baguette, but if that’s too adventurous, asparagus with sauce gribiche, oysters, French onion soup or avocado prawn might tempt. We went for shaved ham with celeriac remoulade, generous quantities of salty thin-sliced prosciutto on a grated celeriac and apple salad with a creamy dressing – light and crunchy. Parisian dumplings were ricotta and Parmesan dumplings in a herby butter sauce with some fresh asparagus spears. Billed as a vegetarian main option, these were tasty and unapologetically rich, and it’s worth asking for more bread to balance out that richness.

Bobo's Brasserie

Classic steak frites seemed to be a popular order with fellow lunchers, and the day’s special of quiche Lorraine with salad made several appearances. Our white fish nicoise and beef bourguignon was served in generous portions with side bowls of buttered baby potatoes. The fish came with lashings of olives, tomato, capers and herbs packing a flavour punch; the beef needed longer, slower cooking to do justice to its namesake, but had a rich wine sauce and plenty of mushrooms.

The vibe is polished but informal, and the offering of a whole roast chicken served family-style at the table is appealing for those eating out with kids. Service throughout was warm and welcoming and we finished with excellent coffee, enjoying the quintessential view of palm trees and sun glinting off the ocean waves.

In your hood: Mouille Point
Bobo’s Brasserie
021 439 9027
bobosbrasserie.co.za