Words: Kit Heathcock | Images: Shutterstock
The magical combination of Indian Ocean, Overberg Mountains and oft-cited champagne air keeps visitors to Hermanus coming back for more. The seaside town has long been a favourite weekend destination for Capetonians, and popular summer holiday spot for both South Africans and international visitors. It used to lapse back into a sleepy retirement haven after the busyness of the summer season, but now it has a year-round calendar of events, festivals and activities, from whale watching and wine tasting to ziplining, para-gliding and shark cage diving, that keeps the community buzzing with energy every weekend of the year.
Stay
Holidaymakers tend to fall deeply in love with Hermanus, returning year after year with their families, so that buying a holiday home here often makes sense. “We bought a flat years ago as an investment, not realising what an investment it would become to our busy lives – an escape from the rat-race where we could breathe and replenish our energy,” says Ian Pilkington, who looks forward to retiring here eventually. Many choose Hermanus as a retirement home not just for the fond memories of family holidays, but for its mild climate, spectacular scenery, easy beach living and friendly supportive community.
Family homes, retirement villages and apartments cluster around Walker Bay in suburbs from Voëlklip to Westcliff, spreading around the point to join Sandbaai, Onrus and Vermont. Holiday visitors have a huge choice of accommodation – from holiday rentals to friendly B&Bs and guest houses and, at the top-end of the scale, luxury hotels such as The Marine and Birkenhead House.
The sleepy retirement town image is changing, as more young families buy into the lifestyle, with good schools in Hermanus High School and Curro Hermanus. “My family moved to Hermanus in 1999 when my mother decided it was best to raise her sons here instead of the city,” says Wade Banks, who has lived here ever since and loves the open-air lifestyle.
Wander
The clifftop paths are an intrinsic feature of Hermanus living, meandering along the cliffs for 11km from the new harbour all the way to Piet se Bos milkwood forest behind Grotto Beach. “When in Hermanus we walk, walk and walk,” says Ian. “The cliff path provides an unblemished view of sea and mountain and brings one close to nature like the fynbos and dassies for which Hermanus is renowned. One meets the regulars who always greet or stop to chat.”
It’s easy to escape up into the mountains, starting with the Fernkloof Nature Reserve and its hiking trails. “The Three Dams is a little gem hidden in the mountains behind Voëlklip,” says Wade. “A short hike up the mountain brings you to the first dam where there’s always a buzz of people coming to swim and relax.” Next on his list of favourite places is Grotto Beach, a beautiful blue-flag beach, long, wide and sandy with a stunning backdrop of mountains that is perfect for swimming, tanning and walking, with both dogs and owners enjoying the expansive 18km of sand stretching all the way to De Kelders.
And the views everywhere take your breath away. “Sit down at Gearings Point and just take in the view, the splashing of the waves against Castle Rock and along the coastline,” suggests resident Mercia Uys. This is also a favourite spot for whale watching in winter, or drive up behind the town and discover the incredible panoramic viewpoints from the Rotary Way.
Leisure
The Hermanus Whale Festival in September attracts a full house of visitors, celebrating the southern right whales who are such a feature of this coastline in the winter months. Street parades, stalls and live music fill the “village” with a lively vibe. There’s also the FynArts Festival in June, the Kalfiefees in August and Flower Fair in September.
The Hemel-en-Aarde valley’s growing reputation for cool-climate wines makes for a fabulous wine route exploring farms such as Bouchard Finlayson, Creation, Newton Johnson and Hamilton Russell. And leave time to explore the charming centre of town around the old harbour with its quirky shops, charming cafes and heritage buildings, all part of Hermanus’s perennial charm.
I love the sea but it is the Overberg mountains that attracted me to want to settle in Hermanus. The ‘champagne climate’ is wonderful, the temperatures mild in the winter and summer days are glorious.
Mercia Uys, resident
Eat:
- Bientangs Cave: seafood experience in a quirky cave setting
- Harbour Rock: seafood and sushi with a fabulous view
- Burgundy Seafront Restaurant: breakfast, bistro food and ocean view
- Lizette’s Kitchen: elegant Asian eats
- Source: breakfast and lunches with a contemporary flair
- Belgian Waffles, Beers, and Burgers: sweet and savoury waffles with a view
- CanD’s Kitchen: homely feel with fresh bakes and lunches
- Cafe 1904: good bistro fare
Nature:
- Fernkloof Nature Reserve for fynbos and spring flowers
- Three Dams for freshwater swimming
- Whale watching from anywhere along the cliffs
- Bird-watching on the cliffs, by the lagoon, in the mountains
- Boat trips on Walker Bay
- Sunset picnics on the beaches
Stay:
- Birkenhead House
- The Marine Hotel Hermanus
- One Marine Drive Boutique Hotel
- Auberge Provence
- Kennedys Beach Villa
- Auberge Burgundy
- Mosaic Lagoon Lodge
